Hey what’s up brothers, Viper here and the time has come to cover a very important subject that has always been a difficult subject in the world of Airsoft.
The subject we’re talking about is zero ing your optics.
So, as for today we will teach you a method to zero the optics of your Airsoft guns without the use of a range and even without firinga single round.
Which means you can just do it at home.
So, quick as always, before we go over this subject.
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So as mentioned, today we’ll cover the issue where we all need to deal with, which is properly zeroing the optics of your Airsoft guns.
Now, we know what some of you will say and we’ve heard it plenty of times ourselves: Well, there are 2 things we need to point out here.
One being, the difference between accuracy and precision.
To most they might seem the same, but they’ reactually defined differently.
Accuracy refers to the exactitude of where you aim and where your shots hit the target.
While precision is stated as the spread of the shots to one another or what we call the grouping.
So it would be more correct to speak about Airsoft guns not being very precise.
The second thing we want to point out is that yes, for most guns on the market that is the case, but the better ones out there with the best hop-up systems and fps consistency are pretty precise.
And having an accurately zeroed optic gives you an advantage in comparison to others, because it provides a very fast reference to shoot with.
Now, as for ourselves it’s very important to have a properly zeroed optic for doing both our training with these guns and consistent shooting in the field, especially with the use of thirty round magazines.
Because then we of course need to rely on the accuracy and precision of our guns.
That being said, precision is something that comes from the gun itself, for Airsoft that mostly has to do with the hop-up, the air-nozzle, the barrel and the fps consistency.
While accuracy has to do with the alignment of your optic and your barrel.
Now, the usual way to properly zero your optic requires a range of overall about 50 meters for the use of most guns with no wind influence.
But the fact is that very few people have access to something like that.
So, what most of us do, to have at least abit of a zeroed optic, is taking some shots before the start of an event.
But the thing with this quick method is that your shots can be difficult to track and if there’s any wind it will set your optic off.
So, for the last year we’ve developed and tested a method we’ve come up with to set your optic without the use of a range and even without firing a single round.
This implies you can do most of the work inside, just at home.
And we will also prove that this method works by showing you some tests at the range more towards the end of this video.
So, what are the requirements for this: Well, you will need a laser bore slighter ,a measuring tool, something to write down some numbers, a calculator, a wall to aim at and some tape.
Once, you have those things, we can go over to the steps of this zeroing process.
Step 1 requires the knowledge of a few things first.
For this, the first thing you need to be aware of, is you have to know the effective range of your gun! With effective range, we mean the biggest distance where you are certain, you will consistently hit the target with each shot.
And yes guys, there are big differences ineffective ranges when it comes to a normal AEG, a Tokyo Marui NGRS, a System a PTW, a DAS GBLS, a DMR and a sniper.
By the way, soon we’ll be launching a video about what the differences are between a low budget AEG up to the very high end AEGs when it comes to these things.
So, if it’s released you’ll find the link in the description below.
Now, as for our example with the Tokyo Marui Next-Gen that would be about 40 meters.
The second thing you need to know is to decideat what range you’re going to zero at.
Now, with our method you can pick any given distance, however it needs to comply to whatever you do and what the effective range of your gun is.
So, our experience tells us that if you play only indoor 20 meters should do you fine.
While people that mostly shoot outdoors overall best use a 30 meter zero.
If you however do much of both worlds, we highly recommend you to go with a 30 meter zero and learn to use it up close indoors as well.
This means aiming more beneath your reticle when your target is presented closer to you.
For the sniper and DMR users out there a 50 meter zero seemed good enough for the extended range.
So once you’ve chosen your zeroing distance,you want to write that number down and let’s call this the number D from distance.
For our example we’ll use 30 meters.
OK, the third thing you need to know is about red-dot sights, scopes and similar that sit inside a ring.
Be aware that these need to sit properly leveled inside that ring and are not canted or zeroing your optic will become very difficult.
So, now that you know these things, let’s go over to step 2.
For step 2 you’re going to do some measuring and write down those numbers as well.
But before you do that, you first need tore move any sort of muzzle accessories from your gun, like in our case the suppressor and flash hider.
This will give you a better view of where the tip of your inner barrel is to make proper measurements.
And later when you’re going to insert the bore sighter in your inner barrel it won’t be interfered by these parts and it also won’t get stuck.
Now, the first thing you’re going to measure is the distance of the tip of your inner barrel to the wall you will be aiming at.
Mind the closer to the wall, the less precise you can zero.
The farther to the wall, the better you can zero, as long as you can clearly see the laser of course.
We usually take 2 meters ourselves and mark it with some tape on the floor for an easy reference.
Let’s call this number R from reference.
The next thing you want to measure is the vertical distance between the center of your optic and the center of your inner barrel or the extension of the inner barrel.
Let’s call this number V from vertical.
And the last thing you’re going to measure is the horizontal distance going from the tip of your inner barrel, because that’s where the BB exits, to the point where the center of your optic meets the inner barrel or the extension of the inner barrel.
Let’s call this number H from horizontal.
As for the next step we’ll cover the laser bore sighter.
Now, this is a laser bore sighter which is normally used to make a fast zero for real rifles.
These things come with different adapters to fit a range of calibers, because they’re made for real steel firearms.
That said, the first and most important thing about this tool is to get a decent one, because the good ones have been properly zeroed in the factory.
Which you may not ever make adjustments on by the way.
But to give you an idea of what’s good,this one came with a price tag of about 50 Euros.
Now, before you start to use this tool, your gunmay not contain any sort of mag or power source and needs to be on safe, because you may not take any shots with this thing in your barrel.
Furthermore, in order to insert this tool you will need the smallest caliber adapter that comes along with it and widen it till it grabs itself on the inner barrel of your Air soft gun.
Also important to know is to put the laser straight into your barrel like the example in this case where the battery compartment needs to be on top because of factory zeroing.
Now that you know how to use this tool we can go over to the next step which is zeroing your optic to your gun.
The first thing you’re going to do is turn on your optic if needed and make sure to dim it until you can barely see the reticle.
This makes it possible to make very small adjustments.
For scopes its easiest to set them to the least possible magnification to make your adjustments.
Now, the first thing you want to do is set the wind age of your optic.
This is the horizontal position of the reticleor cross hairs.
By doing this first you will make it easier to set the elevation or vertical positioning of your reticle or cross hairs.
Important before you start is to use your gun as you would shoot it, this means your butt stock and optic has to be set as you useit and your aim through the optic needs to be as you would use it as well.
To be more clear with 1 eye or 2 eyes open and if you use any sort of lens protector, leave it on.
Or you might zero it off dueto the how light behaves through it.
Also look as much as possible to the reticleor cross hairs and see through the optic as you wouldn’t mind the laser dot.
Now, how to set your windage.
Well, take the largest distance in your room and adjust the wind age till your reticle or cross hairs matches up to laser point seenon the wall.
Do notice the farther this is done, the better this alignment will be.
If you don’t get it right for 100 %, don’t worry because a more exact alignment can be done later.
This is just so you can easily set that elevation.
When that is done, you’re going to calculate the offset for your sights which we’ll call O from offset.
Now, this is the point where those numbers you’ve measured and wrote down come in place.
We’re going to put those numbers into a small formula and the outcome will be the amount you need to aim higher with your dotor cross hairs than the laser point presents itself on the wall.
A quick notice before you start to calculate,make sure all your numbers are converted to centimeters for the metric unit users or ininches for the imperial unit users.
This will make sure that you don’t make errors and that the outcome is immediately in the correct unit as well.
Now, if you guys are not really a fan of formulas and calculations, we’ve made a calculation tool where you just need to fill in your numbers and the solution pops out of it.
You can find this tool in the corresponding blogpost of this video on our platform recon brothers.
We’ll put the link down below.
For those of you that do like some math, we’ll shortly explain what you need to do.
So, in order to calculate your reticle offset,you’re first going to take your number D and subtract your number R from it.
This will give a new number which we’ll call A.
Then you’re going to take your number Hand add your number D to it which will give you a new number B.
After that’s done you are going to take your number A you’ve calculated and divide this by the number B you’ve just calculated and multiple that with the number V.
The outcome you now have is your offset O.
Now that you have your offset calculated,you’re going to set the elevation of your optic.
Before you start doing this, you’re going to need a stable platform to aim as steadily as possible and try to level your gun horizontal yas much as you can.
Also take in mind you align your inner barrel with the mark on the floor to have the correct distance away from the wall.
Again keep those things in mind about your butt stock and optic positioning, the 1 and 2 eye aim and about ignoring the laser dotas much as possible.
So, if that’s taken care of you are going to make both a zero-line or the point where your laser inside your barrel marks on thewall and an offset-line or the point where your reticle or cross hairs needs to aim on the wall.
In order to do this, you’re going to make your base-line first and measure the needed height or offset you’ve just calculated which will give you your offset-line.
If you can’t make any marks on your wall,you can also ask a buddy to show you the offset point with the use of a ruler.
Anyway, whatever way you choose to do it,adjust your reticle in elevation until it’s set to the correct offset distance.
When that’s done your optic is zeroed.
The only thing you need to do after that on the field is adjusting your hop-up, so that the BBs are making the farthest possible straight trajectory.
This means no over-hopping or your zeroing will be off! Now, when you’ve done this, your optic is alignedwith your barrel to your exact chosen distance like 30 meters with this gun.
However, it might still be that your wind ageis a tiny bit off due to the laser point being quite big presented on the wall from up close usage.
You’ll definitely be able to take accurate shots, but if you want to make those nearly perfect adjustments we recommend you to use your bore sighter and aim somewhere further away at a field for example, so you can make finer wind age adjustments.
But please, when doing so stay off your elevation,so only use the adjustment placed on the horizontal side of your optic! So that being said, The beauty behind this method besides your optic being aligned at a chosen distance and most of it being done indoor at a fews meter away from a wall, is the fact that there’s no wind involved and it doesn’t matter where your optic is mounted.
Now, As for zeroing iron sights, you can use the bore sighter to set the windage, but for the elevation it won’t be that accurate, because the BUIS or Back Up Iron Sights are inherently just not that accurate.
And like the name says it serves as a fastback-up option.
However if you’ve set your optic you canuse what’s called co-witnessing to set your iron sights.
For this you just turn on your optic and adjust your iron sights until they align with your reticle.
Alright, so now you’re probably wondering like: well this method is all neat and such, but first I would like to have some proof to see thatit actually works.
Well, we’ve taken care of that so let’s head out to the range.
So guys, we’re here at the 50 m range to show you the results of our zeroing method.
Now, we have 3 guns laying here.
The first one being, is my M4 which we’ve zeroed at 20 m away at home.
The second one is the HK which we’ve zeroed at 30 m away.
And the third one is my personal L96 sniper rifle which we’ve zeroed at 50 m away.
So, most people that make these sort of videos to show you the accuracy and precision of these guns, They’re usually standing straight up, picking a target and shooting at it that way.
Now, in our eyes that are way too many variables we would like to eliminate, way too many human variables.
So, what are we going to do, to do that.
Well, we’re going to use this table to provide a stable platform.
I’m going to take a seat and provide,.
and use what’s known as a sniper hold.
This way I’ll eliminate my movements as much as possible.
So, in this way we’ll do the testing.
Now, let’s go over to my brother.
So, here we have our target standing at 20 m away to do our first test with our first gun.
Now, keep in mind that the target is standing at the exact same height as the barrel of our gun is, So we also eliminate that variable.
Now, all the measuring was done with the range finder we got from Airsoft doctor, so thanks for that Doc.
Now, the specifications our first test.
Viper will be putting the laser bore sighter into his barrel and he will be aiming with his optic at the center of the target.
Then we will see where the laser will presents itself.
As for our second we’ll put the laser bore sighter aside and we’ll insert a magazine.
Then Viper will be taking 10 shots at a target and we’ll see what results we get.
Now, keep in mind that its’ not about the precision of the guns, but about the accuracy of the optic related to the barrel.
Also keep in mind that our target is only 14 cm by 14 cm which is not that big and can be related to a head shot.
Now, let’s get to the testing.
Now let’s get back to the studio and check those results.
So, now that we’re back at the studio we’re going to have a closer look at the results.
Let’s begin with the M4 at 20 meters away.
Here we’ve got 9 hits and shown from the footage 1 BB has hit the frame of the target, so not that bad.
Now, from this result we can see that the shot sare neatly centered when it comes to the vertical positioning, which means that our elevation calculation worked at 20 meters away.
But when we look at the horizontal positioning of the shots, we see that they are more outlined towards the left of the target.
Now, when we take the card from the second gun with the HK416 at 30 meters away, we’ve hit the target 6 times and1 shot hit the frame out the total 10 shots.
The others were not that far off either.
Looking at the results, we can make the same conclusion as with the M4, but now for 30 meters away.
At last, when we look at the shots from the sniper, we hit 3 shots out of the 10 taken, 1 has hit the frame and the others were quiteclose to the target as well.
Now, again these cards are only 14 by 14centimeters big which can be compared to making a head shot at these distances.
Also do mind that we did the zeroing inside at our studio, but we haven’t adjusted for windage at larger distances yet which explain sour deviation toward the left of the targets.
So, the final conclusion we can make from this, is that yes this method is indeed a good way to zero your optics without the use of a red dot sight.
Especially the elevation methodology is quite accurate for the chosen zeroing distance.
Only the wind age zeroing can use some minor adjustments at further distances, but once that’s done, you definitely have a solid zeroed optic for the use in Airsoft.
So guys, hope you’re convinced that this zeroing method provides the solution for you when it comes to having an accurate Airsoft gun.